Fashionable Watches

The Worst Value Watch Ever? | Watchfinder & Co.

The Worst Value Watch Ever? | Watchfinder & Co.

they say that something valuable is worth its weight in gold and in watchmaking there’s a lot to be said about having some heft so given that and despite having a fully-integrated bracelet and costing a gasp inducing twelve thousand one hundred pounds the bulgaria opto finest mo automatic at just 73 grams less than a weight of a bag of Doritos might just be pound for pound the very worst Valley Watch in the world [Music] thinking of Bulgari doesn’t automatically engender the image of a fine watchmaker the Italian brand having spent much of his a hundred and thirty-five years of existence concentrating his efforts on jewelry making some watches came and went here and there but nothing ever really moved the needle if the brand was to be taken seriously as a watchmaker it would need to take watchmaking seriously itself so in 2010 the expertise of two men was sought namely Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta the names might be familiar to you Roth revitalized breguet and Lemonnier in the 1990s genta did the same for Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillipe in the 1970s there’s an obvious connection between these two men and that’s the ability to take an ailing once-great watchmaker and make its watches special and desirable once more this however would be their biggest challenge yet but rough and gentle weren’t career businessman their expertise didn’t lie in marketing or international sales or anything like that they were hands-on creators the minds from which the future of Bulgari’s watchmaking would come both these men had signature designs that thanks to their friend buoyance were easily transposed into the very Italian Bulgari collection and just like that Bulgari became a credible watchmaker although not just like that not really because as every conglomerate knows simply buying up a brand is not good enough to generate success by itself Bulgari needed to take its approach to watch making even more seriously than that and what better way to do so than by breaking a few records big records so Bulgari took gentes familiar eight-sided okto design and fitted it with at or beyond but not any old tobe on the thinnest in the world given that it’s or beyond is one of the most complex mechanisms in watchmaking the fact that the capital beyond bvl to six eight measured in at just one point nine five millimeters thick is frankly astonishing and if the tour beyond is one of the most complicated mechanisms then the minute repeater is the most complex and that’s what bulgaria did next making the world’s thinnest at just three point one two millimeters for the bvl three six two but massively expensive flagship pieces and these were very very expensive are often considered more of a concept a flavor of what a brand could achieve if it really tried the real proof is in the mass-market pudding the watches that people of more ordinary means could contemplate purchasing and that brings us to this the Bulgari octo finesse mo automatic so what is the octo finesse mo automatic and why should it be considered a worthy successor to the Bulgari octo line thus far it’s a simple watch time only no date it doesn’t even have central seconds a mild complication has been forgotten for a sub dial instead the dial itself is plain embellished only with print not an applied marker in sight there’s no polishing a brushing just a utilitarian bead blasted finish across the entire watch dial and all it is altogether rather unremarkable that is until you turn it on its side because this watch contains the caliber bv l 1 3/8 which took the record for the world’s thinnest automatic movement at just two point two three millimeters thick the bvl one 3/8 can squeeze into a case with a depth of only five point one five millimeters and that’s mostly thanks to the micro rotor hiding to one side an automatic watch typically uses a weight that is centrally hinged and bans the radius of the watch here a very small rotor is sunk into the movement itself this would ordinarily mean the rotor would not have enough mass to adequately perform its duties but here is made entirely from platinum giving it the heft it needs to keep the wash wound combined this with a titanium case and an equally slender titanium bracelet so thin in fact that the clasp is recessed into it and you get to watch that to quote Ned Flanders feels like I’m wearing nothing at all but it’s uncanny you see they’re not inconsiderable chunk of this square forty millimeter watch in its broad integrated bracelets yet to wear it honestly feels like there’s nothing there if you’ve ever had a bug land on your wrist you’ll know what it’s like to wear an October nice mo automatic what it does mean is that the experience of the octo finesse mo automatic is a very alien one we used to wearing watches that way something that carry some heft and when a watch weighs virtually nothing at all it feels cheap it’s not both in the sense of the engineering achievement and the actual RRP but it’s an unusual experience nonetheless and one that could be misconstrued as poor value but the truth is that Bulgari has broken new ground yet again taking the automatic movement and some hundred years after it was first developed pushing it even further than ever before you could fairly say that Bo gari is not a proper watchmaker the Heritage isn’t there the historical influence it’s a jewelry brand that bought out some watch companies and nothing more but I think that’s doing Bulgari a disservice sure it may have fast-tracked its way into the industry but it’s taken what it has and pushed it to the very limits of possibilities on multiple occasions there are many long-established watchmakers resting on their laurels that through decades of can place see can no longer claim to be anywhere near as innovative as Bulgari is being now the octo finesse MO automatic may feel like the worst value watch in the world but its value to watchmaking as a whole it’s priceless discover more exceptional watches and 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Reader Comments

  1. And for that price you would think the part with two screws shown near the rotor at 6.47 would look like it was meant to fit and not like a square peg in a round hole.

  2. Theres a visual defect on the movement, shows up @6:53 a bit up and to the right of the jewel, on the polished edge…

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