Fashionable Watches

The Watches of Only Watch 2019

Hello and welcome on and today
we come back on some of the main watches participating at this year’s edition of Only Watch, the
charity auction raising funds to fight the Duchene muscular dystrophy disease and hosted
by Christie’s auction house. This is a biannual event and over the years,
it has truly become a real benchmark for the industry; some brands getting seriously involved,
meaning developing unique timepieces for the good cause, some taking simpler paths, but
overall this has become a really good communication platform for smaller and more challenging
brands, but even for big ones such as Patek Philippe and I’ll tell you why in a second. So the other day, I went to Monte Carlo for
the official launch of this year’s edition which took place during the Monaco Yacht Show,
so I do admit that this was pretty sweet and when some people talk about watches as toys
for boys, well those toys are nothing compared to some of these gigantic vessels seen there
and actually almost makes you think that watchmaking is a cheap hobby relatively to these floating
palaces. Nevertheless always nice to see the watchmaking
family together, had a great time, but let’s go back to the subject of the day and let’s
talk about some of these watches and let’s immediately set the bar this high as Patek
Philippe put on auction an amazing timepiece with a unique version of its Grandmaster Chime
coming in a steel case, their most complicated wrist watch ever produced featuring a Grande
Sonnerie but actually has 5 different striking modes and overall feature 20 complications
on this double sided timepiece. As you can imagine, this has already gotten
very serious collectors around the world pretty much crazy and it should fetch an astronomical
price, we’re talking in the 10 million range, meaning record territory by far for a modern
steel watch, ok no ordinary steel watch of course. As a reminder the Grandmaster Chime was first
introduced as an anniversary piece for the brand’s 175th birthday; 7 were produced,
one for the museum, 6 for some carefully selected customers of Patek. Two years later in 2016, they introduced a
“simpler” white gold version, less engraving in particular, and I concur that the word
“simple” is not really adequate. Anyhow, the fact that Patek is giving away
such a timepiece for this good cause is seriously just a super powerful statement saying “yes,
we can do this!”. In my opinion and on a communication standpoint,
it contributes very efficiently in setting them apart, just above everyone else, no other
brand can and will come close to this and in terms of brand values perception this is
ultimately pretty brilliant. And when I say values, this indeed encompasses
both value in monetary terms, but also as an extremely generous gesture and it will
get them plenty of coverage, a real win-win for everybody; the brand, the event and most
importantly the people faced with this terrible disease and the progress made from better
funded research teams. So bravo or chapeau as we say in french, hats
off and to make things very clear and with almost a fun twist from Patek, I like this
“The Only One” marking around the 24h indicator dial, quite neat I think. Ok, next timepiece but we’re continuing
with another spectacular one as F.P. Journe introduced the Astronomic Blue and
what a technical marvel. As its name implies you have plenty of astronomical
indications found on this watch; sidereal time on the left subdial, dual timezone hour
indicator on the right subdial, moon phase on the bottom left of this counter and a central
large minute hand. At 12 o’clock you have a beautiful sunrise
sunset indicator with kind of gage system sliding on both sides corresponding to the
actual date because when you flip this timepiece around and beside the beautiful movement architecture,
a real pleasure to look at, here you will find date indications and depending on the
set date on this rotating disk, the before mentioned sunrise/sunset slider will adapt
accordingly. On this side you can also see an equation
of time indicator, a 60’’ tourbillon and yes this is also a minute repeater, as simple
as that. But something which is really incredible is
that all the settings of the watch is operated solely by the crown as François-Paul Journe
demonstrated to me. Yes that was pretty cool and yes what an absolute
fantastic timepiece which should also reach a very decent price to say the least. Ferdinand Berthoud presented a unique version
of the Chronometre FB1 called the Night Star and coming in a special anthracite ceramised
titanium 44mm case which gives it this really nice black/grey colour, something also found
on the dial with this black frosted finishing which really takes it alive with these light
reflexions and talking about light and when you flip it around, Ferdinand Berthoud used
sapphire bridges which also kind of sucks light in and opens even more this absolutely
gorgeous movement. I sincerely really liked it, beautiful. Ok, next watch with Armin Strom who came with
a unique version of their Resonance movement, meaning a movement where the two regulating
organs are oscillating in resonance in order to achieve better chronometrical performances,
a real technical feat. Breguet gave a nice chocolate brown version
of their Type 20 column wheel chronograph with flyback function, caliber Valjoux 235,
coming in a 38mm steel case, simple, classical, efficient and the matching calfskin bracelet
just works fine. Hermès presented a one-off version of their
Heure de la Lune with its playful moon indication where both date and hour and minute satellite
dials circle around the center axis and hide the two moons found at 12 and 6 o’clock. Love this watch, one of this year’s favorites
of mine and since it was limited and both versions being sold out, well another occasion
to get one. Tudor presented a really cool black ceramic
version of the Black Bay. Kind of full mate black, almost stealth looking,
super super cool and though starting estimates are low for this watch and corresponding to
the market price of some Black Bay models, I wouldn’t be surprised if final price could
come as a shocker like they pulled it off for the last edition of Only Watch, cool watch. Richard Mille handed a RM11-03 McLaren model
and what is also interesting with this auction is that for some brands, the lot isn’t “only”
made by the timepiece itself and in the case, the bid winner will receive a total McLaren
experience as they say, meaning a tailor made McLaren driving suit, ok nice, but you will
be able to use it during a test drive with fellow driver Bruno Senna, as well as visiting
the Woking factory in England, pretty cool experience and on top of it you don’t have
to buy a McLaren to be able to buy this watch, which is normally the case. Only pocket watch put on auction comes from
Kari Voutilainen who for the first time worked with his daughter and presented this TV shaped
timepiece featuring LeCoultre ebauche movement but finished to the standards of the great
watchmaker. The case is made of titanium, dial out of
solid silver with signature Voutilainen guilloché patterns and I like this blue fumé glass
which combines nicely with the red hour indexes and hands. The other non wrist watch featured in the
auction is a special and unique version of T-Rex, the recently launched very original
table clock made by MB&F and L’Epée 1839 and this Only Watch version features Tom,
the figurine sitting nicely on top the beast. Again, very cool object! H. Moser presented a really beautifully looking
version of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon coming with a special black dial made out of Vantablack,
a super black coating and by super black I mean that this special material hold the record
in terms of the “blackest substance” made of carbon nanotubes which absorbs and entraps
99.9% of the light and I don’t know if you can really grasp this on our shots, but I
can promise you that the effect is pretty spectacular in real because it precisely almost
doesn’t seem real, very bizarre! Akrivia presented a unique version of its
Chronometre Contemporain coming with a blue/grey enamel dial which is hand hammered and gives
it a really nice texture. The case of this timepiece has been created
and crafted by legendary case make Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a neighbor of ours here in the Old
Town of Geneva and this watch is officially chronometer certified by the Besançon Observatory. Since all models of this Chronometer Contemporain
have already been sold, this is also a unique occasion to get your hands on one. Bovet presented the Récital 23 “Hope”,
an oval shaped timepiece coming also with this signature travel desk asymmetrical case. This is really a very refined lady timepiece,
nicely gem set and on the main hour and minute aventurine dial, you will find a miniature
painted fairy seated on a moon crescent and the details are just mesmerizing. A true beautiful and original timepiece. Still for ladies, Louis Vuittton presented
the Escale Spin Time and the spin aspect of this watch is that the hour index rotates
on itself and displays the ongoing hour while the other indexes are turned face down. Additional to some nice gem setting, the dial
features enamel grand feu and colorful micro painted patterns and Louis Vuitton logo. Another very interesting timepiece comes from
Andersen Genève, a real artisan type workshop and the watch presented is really different
from all others. It’s called the “montre a tact”, but
compared with the tact watches of the 18th century where you would actually feel time
with your fingers, in this case the hour indication can be subtly seen through an opening found
between the lower lugs of this fabulous looking case. You have no crown on the side of the watch
and this is found on the back of the case. True artisanship at its finest, beautiful. So we were lucky enough to have access to
all these watches just a few days before they made it to Monaco, but of course we didn’t
have time to shoot all 50 models participating in the auctions, therefore I just wanted to
add a couple of things. First one concerns our good russian friend
Konstantyn Chaykin who brought directly from Moscow a fantastic and unique version of his
Joker watch; fun, joyful but real serious watchmaking nevertheless. The guy is really creative, just love it and
this timepiece is actually called the Joker Selfie since it holds little design twists
corresponding to Konstantyn Chaikin himself, for instance the color of the eyes and of
course this mini watchmaker magnifying loupe which opens when held vertically, just super
cool, what can I say!! The second one marks the collaboration of
URWERK and De Bethune and I really like these kind of very special one offs type of projects. The fun aspect is that you clearly see both
identities of these two brands in this unique timepiece; URWERK satellite time indication
and case shape, De Bethune movement architecture, dual sided moon indication on the front in
particular. It’s not the first time URWERK did this,
for the last edition of Only Watch, they collaborated with Laurent Ferrier and it will be very interesting
to see what this watch will fetch during the actual auction taking place in Geneva on November
9th and of course you can bid online and I already know that we are going to see some
spectacular bidding, the Patek of course on the course of another record, but overall
money collected will be in the very high numbers, but for a good cause and it’s nice to see
so many brands making this special effort, but not only brands like for instance Jacob
& Co which is presenting a watch that maybe could be seen as kind of normal, but for the
bid winner to have this watch delivered to you in person by Lionel Messi, well that’s
quite special too if you’re a Messi fan. Anyhow, was great to be there among our watchmaking
family friends, always a pleasure, had great fun and obviously having the opportunity of
seeing all these crazy boats was also rather cool to be honest, just completely another
world, another dimension, but to finish off this report, also wanted to mention that these
50 watches are now going on a world tour; Dubai, Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Singapore,
Hong Kong, Taipei and back to Geneva a couple of days before the actual auction and you
will find dates in the description of this video and on our website, so if you have the
opportunity of seeing them in real, well it’s a pretty cool sight, trust me on this. Ok, enough of Only Watch 2019, thanks for
watching, thanks to our patrons, hope you liked it. All the very best to you and Viva Watchmaking.

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