Fashionable Watches

Porsche 944 Repairing the digital clock

Porsche 944 Repairing the digital clock

Hello my friends, I promised you, that I’ll address some luxury problems of the 944 Today we’ll repair the digital clock You know the problem is due to a wrong temperature specification of the LCD displays A lot of these displays are more or less clouded You see, the clock is still running, when I switch the mode But most of the display is unreadable Porsche sells the clock for a very high price, and you get a clock with a 25 year old display But there are good news, since some years there is a repair kit available You may buy such a kit for example at the WPO-shop The address you see below For dismantling the clock, this strip for the switches has to be removed It has screws here, here, here and on the side Thus we have first to remove this cover and the rosette The lighter has to be removed, too The rosette is rather fragile, turn it a little counterclockwise Then it can be removed. Be careful, it breaks easy The screw is located under it Pull the knobs, be carefull there are no spare knobs available anymore The big knobs remain The cover is also very fragile, it has already a small crack here As with all old plastic parts, it makes sense to warm them up before removing Be very careful when lifting the cover from the sides, this side is loose In any case you’ll need such plastic tools And we have the cover undamaged And here below are the screws Be careful when removing the small cover The slit for the screwdriver is down, but the hooks are at the sides And we got it in one piece Here are 2 screws below The trim cover has one central screw Remove it, Phillips No. 2 And it is away All preparations are done, now start the screw massacre Here, here, and here and all the way round The screws have such dished washers, don’t loose them One down here We continue here Another 2 screws Then the screw under the rosette And these two In order to have more freedom, remove these 2 screws, too Slowly but surely the strip is coming free Be careful the vent comes with the strip Pull the heating control unit a little Just pull it a little at the knobs This is just enough, we can remove the strip at the side Pull the strip with all connected parts And the strip is free Separating the vent from the strip is dangerous Thus I just use some tape to keep the parts together Lift the hooks a little and unplug it And it is unplugged – the first one Unplug the clock and unplug the connector of the lighter and we have the strip The clock is hold by two small Phillips screws, remove them The second one and unhook the clock Now we can address the clock itself The disassembling of the clock starts by removing the white housing The housing is hold by 2 hooks, one here and one on the other side For unhooking you may use a screwdriver from the inner side You can lift the hook a little, and with a second small screwdriver you unhook it completely The same at the other side Insert one screwdriver Lift a little, and the second screwdriver can be applied under the hook When both screwdrivers are under the hooks, you can try another screwdriver at the front You heard, the housing is coming out The same procedure at the other side The frame is already loose Here it is still a little hanging Press a little more here And the clock is out The clock consists of two circuit boards, which are soldered together You must unclip and remove both boards simultaneously Here you see the pins, where the boards are soldered together The clips are here, here, here and here and the same number at the other side We have to unhook all of them, and then we may remove both boards The screwdriver under the hook – and it is free This side is free, continue with the other side This is also free, only one is missing And all the parts drop down Now is the right moment to clean all the parts Clean also the knobs When mounting respect the slide Down here is no slide The housing has the fitting forms Clean also the housing, the dirt of the last 25 years will disappear You see, the cleaning makes some sense For cleaning the light guide it is best to use LCD display cleaner The guide distributes the light of the bulb over the entire display Be very careful, when cleaning the thin foil In the repair kit you’ll find the following items The new display, handle with great care The contact stripes for connecting the display The stripes we’ll have to clean with this tissue And a new bulb, in most cases the old one is broken Before touching the display, it is better to ground The display has a nose at one side The nose comes here in the groove of the frame Insert the display in the frame, the silver side points to the rear Add the thin foil The long part of the light guide is opposite to the nose of the display The contact stripes connect the board with the display Clean the stripes before installing Clean especially the contact sides of the stripes, they must be absolutely clean Use the tissue also to clean the contacts Insert the stripes in the grooves between the light guide and the frame And the other side Add finally the white reflection foil of the light guide Usually it has imprints indicating the orientation When all parts are in their location, i.e. the reflecting foil is placed well over the light guide The stripes are in their grooves, the knobs in their holes Now we can assemble the clock In most clocks the light isn’t working anymore, the same with my clock For replacing the bulb you turn it theoretically by 90° counterclockwise Hold the board and try to turn the bulb Nothing is going, we’ll try it with tender force And we have the little bulb For the bulb you have now the choice There are modern LEDs or the classic tiny bulbs The classic bulb makes a warm not too bright light But it’s like the other bulbs in the 944, that’s old school This will be my choice With the LED it looks like in a modern car, all harsh and bright enlighted Insert the bulb in the same way, pressing a little helps, and turn it by 90° Assembling the parts is always easier than disassembling That’s an old story In principle you have just to clip it together Be careful when pressing, the 2 boards are not stable Press the lower board separately with a screwdriver This side is hooked, now comes the other side One The upper board, too It’s very important that all these hooks are in their place Of course the upper hooks, too. But they snap easily in, when the lower ones are in place Before mounting the clock in the white housing, I’ll check it For this purpose I use my old homemade 12 DC supply The pins of the clock are labeled with the terminal numbers Here is 30, that is permanent plus Than 15, this is plus over the ignition switch Both terminals I’ll supply with 12 V Here is 31, that is ground I use such special clamps for connecting the clock Let’s try it. I connect it to 12 V Looks perfect. We have done it. Great! You see all segments of the clock working, I can mount it back to the housing All buttons are working Stopwatch function, reset, and back to the time Assembling the clock, there are not much possibilities to make an error you see, where the pins enter and where the bulb should be Just attach and press it together The replacement of the display is done, now we have to install the clock in the car Insert the clock with the noses up here in the strip Push it up and press the lower side in the strip Mount the 2 giant screws Screw it in And the second screw, always first a little counterclockwise to find the thread Fasten with care, not the same torque as a cylinder head nut When mounting the strip we have now the problem that this hose have to be attached on the backside of the strip This is a real Porsche construction After the hose is a small fan which aspirates the air to a temperature sensor There are specialists which mount the hose with some thread But I prefer to dismount the glove box for having a better access The cover of the glove box has 3 bolts with Phillips head The one in the mid, now comes the third The cover drops down Remove the cover with such a move The glove box itself has a lot of small screws – one The second here Here in the mid is another one Here is another one, symmetric to the other side One more here The lamp has a slit, apply here a screwdriver to remove it Have you seen, and we have the whole lamp You may unplug it It is isolated, but who is afraid may disconnect the battery When such a AMP-connector don’t want to move, don’t draw at the cable Use pliers and work slowly After some time it will go off Press the glove box in the upper middle, thread-out the cables, and the glove box comes out Connect all the switches Start with the hazard light switch – and it is in Then the plug of the clock And the connectors of the cigarette lighter Pull the heating unit a little Push the strip under it, we have to pull a little more When the strip is under the heating unit, we may continue with the other side Remove the tape Very important when installing the vent, here is a lever for the direction It must enter in this rail, otherwise nothing will work Before installing we coat all with white grease Here a little, here on the joint and here on the joint Push the strip, that the vent enters Press the strip in the middle to press it in the clips Install the 7 screws Just install all loosely The screw under the rosette Here come the screws with the dished washers When all screws are in, fasten them Fasten with care, otherwise the strip will be more damaged This holds Install the triangle cover It has one screw only For sure, the regular engineer was ill, otherwise the part would have 7 screws When all fits, fasten all the screws Now the air hose, just plug it on the rosette To be sure, I put a cable tie on the hose Install both on the nozzle, press it a little It is near to the strip Fasten the strip to secure the hose Now it won’t drop even on the Nürburgring Cut the cable tie and all is fine like in the first day When installing the glove box, take care that it enters in this guide Insert the glove box Take care about the cables and that it fits correctly Press it a little and it is well placed The rubber lip must be placed in between Connect the lamp, here the ground Here the 12 V First these hooks must enter Insert it coming from the rear, moving forward and press it upwards The small screw in the middle is the first one And all the others Then the screws on the side The other side This one too and after inserting the last one, you may fasten all the screws The screws in the mid and on the side And the last one, too Insert the hangers of the glove box cover in the slits Fix it with the 3 bolts – one – two And the bolt on the left side – three The glove box is working perfectly Mount the cover, mounting is always easier than dismounting Here is the slider out of range, you see, be careful Press the cover on the whole surface Mount the knobs for the vents, this one points upwards This one is for down, thus the arrows points downwards All is functioning, fine Inserting the lighter, nobody is smoking here, but it looks original The rosette has some hooks, insert and turn it by some degrees Best to use such a plastic tool Or better. Two plastic tools, one up, one down Now it’s in. Very nice Use also some white grease on the little covers The covers break rather easy Insert one side, and press with a plastic tool on the second hook, and the cover is in What a job! Look how nice the clock is working For all of you who think that repair of the clock is too difficult, there are shops like WPO You send the clock there and you will get back an overhauled clock Bye, bye, see you in our next video

Reader Comments

  1. Wie immer ein sehr gutes und interessantes Video! 🙂 Eines ist mir allerdings aufgefallen. Du hast zum erden an die Heizung gefasst, allerdings nicht an blankes Metall. Bringt in meinen Augen dann nichts…

  2. Hallo Jürgen,
    wo die Stelle am Anfang kommt "unten seht ihr die Adresse"  da liegt eine engl. Übersetzung drüber so das man den Link nicht sehen kann.

  3. Ich schaue alle deine videos mit großer freude und finde es toll immer wieder was zu lernen! aber nun habe ich tatsächlich etwas gefunden das ich mal beanstanden könnte 🙂 du hast beim einbau der uhr bzw leiste mit deinem daumen in den zigarettenanzünder gefasst und da die uhr ja am laufen war gehe ich davon aus das die batterie noch angeklemmt war das hätte schmerzhaft werden können 😀 oder funktioniert der anzünder nur wen die zündung an ist ? ( bin gerade am umbauen baterie und alles ist draus sonst würde ich selbst schnell schauen wie sich das verhällt! )

  4. Moin Kollege,
    Sag mal sind die Displays zufällig genauso groß wie die beim Audi 80/100 Nachface ?!

    Kannst du ggf mal eines nachmessen. Mir Gehen langsam auch die Displays aus.

    Übrigens bei den Audi Anzeigen ist es immer so, wenn Segmente ausfallen ist in der Regel nicht das Display Defekt sondern das Prozessor Board.



  5. This gives me the confidence to fix my own clock.  Yet another fix inspired by Irina25661.  Thanks, you are helping to keep my Porsche 944S on the road.

  6. " screw on this side, surely the engineer was ill, otherwise there would be seven screws…" LOL  Love it. Jurgen thank you for your excellent videos for the Porsche 944.   Being an engineer myself and having recently purchased a 1988 Porsche 944 turbo to restore, I am very impressed with Porsche's engineering on this vehicle, despite the drawbacks of servicing, which it make it all the more challenging.  I also have a 1995 Chevrolet Corvette which I restored, and having worked on that program as an engineer, I can tell you that the Porsche 944 turbo was 10 years ahead of Corvette, dual airbags in 1988, split transaxle with direct driveshaft, multiple crank position sensors, aluminum engine, – all of this did not show up on Corvette until the mid to late 90's.  Plus the Porsche 944 turbo is a steel unitized body and weighs about 500 lbs less than Corvette, and with engine with have as many cylinders and displacement performs as well as my 1995 Corvette.  Now, all the Porsche needs is more horsepower and a modernized MAF and engine management system, higher flow turbo, and on and on….

  7. You can buy this kit at

  8. An excellent step by step guide. So, I did this on my RHD 968CS (same clock, same issue). Without this guide it's easy to miss key steps of hidden screws etc. My experiences;

    Found it really fiddly and difficult to remove the trim strip with clock and hazard switch in place. Impossible to get fingers in behind plastic trim and disconnect hazard light switch and clock. Not sure if a right hand drive 968 dash metal framework design makes it much harder than left hand drive 968. I needed to remove all four climate control unit screws and pull the unit out as much as possible, only then could I twist the strip out for more access behind.

    The cabling harness for clock, hazard switch and cigarette lighter had virtually zero excess to pull out. I snapped the retaining tabs for the hazard light switch when trying to carefuly make room to try and disconnect the switch connecter clips – be really patient and careful with this! Same goes for clock connector – difficult to get finger or screwdriver behind to lever off connector clips. I removed the glove box and lid to give more leg room and cable hand access from underneath.

    Once out the clock repair, although fiddly, was straight forward. However, I 'popped' the new bulb when trying to twist it into place (extremely tight fit) – had to use old bulb instead. Assembling and trim reinstall is a fiddly reverse of removal process. Making sure switch and clock connectors were pushed on enough I found difficult (again, no room behind).

    Side note – for the 968 there was no need to tape the side vent up to the trim. You can carefully pull the trim off from the vent open/close finger lever (gently pull away through the vent grill slot). Clock and reinstall all done and working and should last the next 25 years.

  9. Fantastic video thank you You make it look easy —— I am about about to find out if so — but then a craftsman always makes things look easy

  10. Just bought the repair kit on ebay hoping that it will also work with the temperature gauge which looks very similar. Fingers crossed. Great video!! Thanks

  11. Hi 🙂 I sent you an email to your website, but with no response. I ordered this kit last year, and only now trying to fit it, found it is incomplete – came with just a bulb and not the cradle it needs to fit. Also the contact strips are too short compared to factory. When I rebuilt it with great care, the LCD does not display anything but a few jumbled black lines trying to show the time (it worked perfectly prior to this repair). So it appears you have either sent me the wrong kit or it is faulty.

  12. Jurgen Fantastic video you covered every aspect perfectly I now have a clock working in my 944 s2 cabriolet which I have owned 20 years and never seen it working before

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